Aquarium Cleaning Tips

Aquarium Cleaning Machine Tips;

The Aquarium Cleaning Machine is an aquarium cleaning device which is similar to the Vortex filters that were popular a few decades back (& a still used by some), utilizes fine micron filtration (30 microns) with carbon (although it does not need to be used), a powerful motor, and a vacuum bell.
Although I have used a few similar ideas, including rigging some ideas of my own, none have been as effective while at the same time being so extremely simple.
Many popular aquarium cleaning devices such as the Python or even a home made version using Lees aquarium vacuum parts and your own hose are still often practical, however these cannot polish the water in the way this machine can.
This makes the Aquarium Cleaning Machine effective for nitrate control, a more staple pH/KH (by removal of mulm that produces acids, thus destabilizing pH and using KH), and even lowering of Ich Tomites by filtering out many of these Tomites in the micron filter

Combined with other aquarium maintenance procedures and the use of a UV Sterilizer (make sure you change the UV Bulbs in your sterilizer every six months for best results), this aquarium cleaning device can one more tool in keeping a healthy/thriving aquarium

I use this aquarium cleaning device as another tool for proper aquatic husbandry, not as a cure all or magic bullet. I still change 20% + water, the difference is I will use this machine to vacuum and while doing so drain water into a toilet or into the yard (FW). Then after I have changed the desired amount of water, I will then switch the cleaning machine to re-circulate (polish water similar to older Vortex Filters) and continue to clean ALL the mulm and debris that will add to high nitrates if left during a normal cleaning. Please click on the picture to the above/left for a larger view of how I connect a garden hose for easy switching between water changes and then further water polishing
After this I clean the micron cartridge with a bleach solution and I am ready for the next time. All this without the wasted water of Pythons and a vastly cleaner aquarium without the stress to fish of 80% water changes (due to the change in chemistry and other parameters bring) to remove all the mulm.

In freshwater tanks with sand or marine tanks with fine oolite sized aragonite deep sand beds I only thoroughly vacuum the top 1/2" so as to not "aerate" the de-nitrifying bacteria in the sand bed, with occasional “deep” vacuum bell penetrations to prevent mulm buildup or sulfur reducing bacteria buildup.

In these tanks with sand, I will also set the flow valve VERY slow to make it easier to vacuum in sand without pickup by the machine. Once finished in the sandy areas or simply running the machine to polish the water after completion of vacuuming, I generally will turn the valve to a higher flow rate again.

Please see this article for more: "Aquarium Cleaning".

Cleaning Machine myths, truths

In this short post I will point readers to the Fish as Pets post dealing with this subject (found within FishAsPets.com)



In this post, I discuss anecdotal comments where by persons (often in authority in forums) make statements about the Aquarium Cleaning Machine and what it can and cannot due. In one case we see a person (who is likely a very knowledgeable aquarist) attack the messenger (in this case the inventor), without even using this product and using arguments that make no bearing on whether this product would be useful or not. He even notes that the inventor is likely a LFS owner and that his nitrates are likely over 40 ppm, which sadly if he really was honest, the inventor even states his background and as for the nitrates, I myself due not know what they are in his demonstration tank, HOWEVER I can state that in tests, using controlled tanks this device lowered the nitrates by half in many cases.

Where the Aquarium Cleaning Machine is useful is in tanks such as the demonstration tank that is attacked in the video by this person in the forum. Likely he does NOT need this device, but that does NOT mean others would not find it a VERY worthy investment. Where this product shines is in tanks both FW and SW (I have found it more common in freshwater in mine and others experience) where the aquarium owner has a high bio load for whatever reason (often in a business setting where over feeding is commonly a problem along with inadequate cleanings). I have seen vastly improved nitrate levels, lower DOC, and more stable pH & KH.
A secondary benefit is that this cleaning device is a time saver for larger or especially multiple tank set ups (although for single smaller tanks, this device is NOT a time saver)

The bottom line is that this machine is not for everyone, but for those having some issues with nitrates, DOC, pH stability (due to high DOC, overcrowding, etc.) this is an excellent investment.
However for many high end aquarists, often reef keepers who otherwise have state of the art filtration (& the 100s or 1000s of $ to buy it) and also have both the knowledge AND time to properly take care of their aquarium this machine is likely NOT for them. Sad thing is that I have found comments by reef keeper totally oblivious to the benefits of SHO lighting which is a sad statement on so called "state of the art reef keeping", but this is another story (also found in Fish as Pets)
For further information about this subject and to read the quotes from these forums (Koiphen, Talking Reef, which may be fine forums, but based on this I have to question that), PLEASE read this article from Fish as Pets:
Fish as Pets; Aquarium Cleaning Machine, Forum Hall of Shame part 3

Reasons for aquarium cleaning

Reasons for Aquarium Cleaning (Freshwater OR marine):

* Nitrate control- A nitrate level of 20 ppm or less is best saltwater, 50 ppm or less for FW (you want a Nitrate level of at least 15 ppm for planted FW aquariums).
Please note; an average protein skimmer can NOT keep up with the organic waste output of an average stocked marine aquarium, and water changes for organic removal and nitrate control is still necessary in marine aquarium with a protein skimmer (there of coarse are exceptions in a reef aquarium with large amounts of live rock and live sand, heavy plant or green algae growth, and light animal load- even then added elements need to be replaced in a closed system).

I often have told my customers that Nitrate removal was a ONE (not the only) reason for water changes WITH vacuuming, and it is an important reason.
Also as for Nitrates, especially in marine aquariums, removing organic debris before it "cycles" via vacuuming is in my opinion the main focus of nitrate removal via water change.

* Ph and KH control- Maintaining a proper ph (ph levels have a tendency to drop from biological activity), KH is the buffering abilty of the water and that too can decrease. KH is VERY important and a major problem I have seen over the years in my maintenance business when calling on customers who seemed to always have problems with their aquariums and claimed cleaning their aquarium caused their problems, which of coarse is not true. Maintaining a proper KH between cleanings is important. Wonder Shells are one way, arogonite, Calcium polygluconate are others.


* Removal of harmful elements. There are many toxins that can be introduced, airborne or in other ways enter the aquarium that are not easily measured.

* Rinsing of bio-sponges, media, ect in used aquarium water (not tap water). This includes sponge filters, bio balls, ceramic media in canister filters (canister filters need to be cleaned more often than many aquarists think)

* Removal of waste before it can go thru the nitrogen cycle

* Control of algae growth

* All these reasons are based on 27+ years of professional aquarium maintenance with some of the largest accounts in Los Angeles, CA

For more information and methods for aquarium cleaning, please see this more complete article article:
AQUARIUM CLEANING; Reasons and methods for water changes

AQUARIUM CLEANING

For cleaning your aquarium (freshwater or saltwater) a Gravel Vacuum attached to a siphon or recirculating filter works best. If you have a planted aquarium, I recommend #00 sand (3-5 cm) mixed with laterite or conditioned soil with #3 gravel (2-3 cm) on top. You should NOT vacuum the sand, as this will tend to be sucked all the way thru the vacuum, and this will also disturb the natural aerobic and anaerobic filtration going on in the substrate being performed by the bacteria and plant roots.
A new device that performs both water removal and recirculation thru a micron filter cartridge that is easily cleaned is the Aquarium Cleaning Machine. This new device uses a protected mag drive motor to remove or recirculate your water thru a filter (or both). For saltwater changes, this device is a money saver and fish saver. You can change 20% of your water, then keep refiltering it thru the micron cartridge using the gravel vacuum do pick up debris. This saves having to use more salt for larger water changes and keeps a healthier aquarium with lower nitrates, as much of the debris is removed from your system before it can go thru the nitrogen cycle (adding to the Nitrate levels).

For more information and methods for aquarium cleaning, please see this more complete article article:
AQUARIUM CLEANING; Reasons and methods for water changes